So I wanted in the CNC game, played with the idea of building one but opted against it and went out and bought myself a Probotix Fireball X90. It's a pretty slick machine, easy to assemble, but not entirely complete in my opinion. One of the major shortfalls to me is the lack of any type of work holding system. Yes, I could have plopped down $259 for an aluminum T-slot board, but daaaang I'm cheap. Yes, I can do like I've seen others do before and just screw my work in place, but I've done that and was not very happy with the process. Beyond needlessly butchering my spoil board, it took forever.
Desktop Air Conditioning
There's heat and then there's heat. Usually when I get too hot I go inside, but some heat is inescapable, like at work. I work in a building who's age has come and gone. The on again off again air conditioning system is older than I am and I've been around since man first landed on the moon. It is not too infrequent that temperatures in the office get in the 80's and one hellish day was 98F. The only relief on days when the temperature rises, without burning a sick day, is a tall cup of ice water from the ice dispenser. Jokes fly about knocking holes in walls and sticking in window units but as you know they have to vent heat somewhere. If only I could build an air conditioner that didn't need to exhaust heat. hmmmm...I thought.....ice.
How To Make a Mini-Forge
Ever wonder what's the best $100 you have ever spent was? For me this was updated recently at a forge workshop sponsored at the local maker's space Prototek (https://www.facebook.com/prototekokc). The simplicity/effectiveness ratio of this well thought out mini forge was quite impressive.
This build uses very few tools and even less material. The end forge is created from a single fire brick, some bailing wire and some optional fire proof insulation.
STEP 1: Drill the work material hole
The first step is to bore a hole lengthwise through the brick with a large drill bit (or paddle bit). This hole is the work material hole and will be used to insert metal rod to be heated and worked on. This hole is best if oblong in nature to allow for more height to work with items as you fabricate and should go all the way through the brick to allow working the middle of a long piece of iron. A simple wooden jig is used to hold the brick steady as you drill it out, these bricks are very fragile and may crack easily.
STEP 2: Reinforce with wire
Because of the fragile nature of the fire brick you will want to reinforce the brick with some bailing wire. A single band wrapped and tightened about two inches from each end is sufficient. Tight bends on the wire help keep it snug and tight to the brick. Don't over-tighten the wire though as this again may split the brick.
STEP 3: Drill a hole for the torch
First decide which end is the front of the forge. My choice was simple since drilling the work material hole had resulted in one end being slightly larger than the other. You will want to drill a hole about one inch in diameter to accommodate a propane torch. The hole should be two to three inches from the front and only intersect the work material hole. Do not drill all the way through the brick.
STEP 4: Heat stuff up!
At this point the forge is complete. You may wish to craft some simple blocks to set the forge on or to balance the torch (to keep it from rolling around). The wood block pictured below helps to insulate the forge as the metal table I was working on would act like a massive heat sink and cool the forge.
Here you can see a crowbar in the making ( looks a little like rebar if you ask me ).
After the metal rod has been in the forge for a few minutes just place it on the nearest anvil and coax it into shape.
A bad photo of my favorite crowbar...
An example of why STEP 2 is so important.
MAPP gas can be used for higher temperatures.
A couple of doo-dads made in the forge.
Final notes;
If you are doing a short piece like the crowbar end I did, shove some fire-proof insulation in the back end to trap more heat.
Thinner material, such as 1/4" rod, is more appropriate than rebar for this size of forge. Rebar has quite a bit of mass and is hard to heat up without a considerable amount of time and effort.
I plan to encase my forge in concrete to make it a bit more durable. Without some type of strong reinforcement I doubt this little guy will last long in the workshop.
I need an anvil.
As always, be safe.
This build uses very few tools and even less material. The end forge is created from a single fire brick, some bailing wire and some optional fire proof insulation.
STEP 1: Drill the work material hole
The first step is to bore a hole lengthwise through the brick with a large drill bit (or paddle bit). This hole is the work material hole and will be used to insert metal rod to be heated and worked on. This hole is best if oblong in nature to allow for more height to work with items as you fabricate and should go all the way through the brick to allow working the middle of a long piece of iron. A simple wooden jig is used to hold the brick steady as you drill it out, these bricks are very fragile and may crack easily.
STEP 2: Reinforce with wire
Because of the fragile nature of the fire brick you will want to reinforce the brick with some bailing wire. A single band wrapped and tightened about two inches from each end is sufficient. Tight bends on the wire help keep it snug and tight to the brick. Don't over-tighten the wire though as this again may split the brick.
STEP 3: Drill a hole for the torch
First decide which end is the front of the forge. My choice was simple since drilling the work material hole had resulted in one end being slightly larger than the other. You will want to drill a hole about one inch in diameter to accommodate a propane torch. The hole should be two to three inches from the front and only intersect the work material hole. Do not drill all the way through the brick.
STEP 4: Heat stuff up!
At this point the forge is complete. You may wish to craft some simple blocks to set the forge on or to balance the torch (to keep it from rolling around). The wood block pictured below helps to insulate the forge as the metal table I was working on would act like a massive heat sink and cool the forge.
Here you can see a crowbar in the making ( looks a little like rebar if you ask me ).
After the metal rod has been in the forge for a few minutes just place it on the nearest anvil and coax it into shape.
A bad photo of my favorite crowbar...
An example of why STEP 2 is so important.
MAPP gas can be used for higher temperatures.
A couple of doo-dads made in the forge.
Final notes;
If you are doing a short piece like the crowbar end I did, shove some fire-proof insulation in the back end to trap more heat.
Thinner material, such as 1/4" rod, is more appropriate than rebar for this size of forge. Rebar has quite a bit of mass and is hard to heat up without a considerable amount of time and effort.
I plan to encase my forge in concrete to make it a bit more durable. Without some type of strong reinforcement I doubt this little guy will last long in the workshop.
I need an anvil.
As always, be safe.
Grandma's BBQ sauce
Good barbeque is made from two things; good meat and good sauce. Today we're talking about the later half of the equation. Just like wine different types of meat call for different types of sauce. What we have here is my beloved Grandmother Meinecke's sauce witch I find great on milder meats such as country style ribs and chicken. This is was apparently a closely guarded secret passed from mother to daughter as Grandma wouldn't tell me how to make it and Mom was not only as helpful but darn right hostile when I tried to get the recipe from her. A little subterfuge aside, I'll save you the hassle of talking to my mom.
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